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Line
Boring Tools
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Portable Line Boring Machine Equipment for
fast concentric bore repair of holes on Backhoes, Dozers,
Endloaders, Scrapper Hitches, Tractors,
and more - using a standard mag drill press on heavy construction equipment.
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Photo shows our 72" boring bar reboring 4 holes in line on a large bucket. The mag drill is held by our weld-on safety base in case of power failure. Also notice the 2 just bored and sleeved holes above. |
All you need is our line boring equipment, a mag drill, welder, grinder, C-clamps, caliper and hammer. |
Q150
Line Boring System - with improved drill base adapter:
the most
economical equipment to bore holes round and concentric again. 90%
Made in USA. This setup is intended for repairing holes in heavy construction
equipment such as cranes, backhoes, endloaders, excavators and tractors
powered by your variable speed magnetic drill press with a 3/4 inch
drill chuck. It
can also be used to rebore holes in machine frames, steel mill ladles,
etc.
One year warranty against defects in American craftsmanship. Our 1.500"
diameter boring bars hold standard 1/2" square shank carbide lathe
cutting tools.
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Q150-S
Hole Boring Kit
$1895. |
1.50"
dia x 36" long Boring Bar - made from highest quality
chrome induction hardened and precision ground 100,000
PSI tensile strength alloy steel, resists burrs and scoring
to still fit the bearings use after use. Cutting Bit mounting
holes are spaced 5 inches apart. 3/4 shank with 3 flats for
solid gripping by the drill chuck. |
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The standard Q150-L comes complete with everything you need except the mag drill:
1.50" dia x 54" long Boring Bar - made from highest quality
chrome hardened and precision ground 100,000 PSI tensile
strength alloy steel, resists burrs and scoring to still fit
the bearings use after use. Cutting Bit mounting holes are spaced
5 inches apart. 3/4 diameter shank with 3 flats for solid gripping
by your mag drill chuck. Optional
Milwaukee Portable Magnetic Drill
Press with chuck: $1495. (see
below) |
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The standard Q150-XLS comes complete with everything you need except the mag drill:
1.50" dia x 72" long Boring Bar - made from highest quality
chrome hardened and precision ground 100,000 PSI tensile
strength alloy steel, resists burrs and scoring to still fit
the bearings use after use. Cutting Bit mounting holes are spaced
5 inches apart. 3/4 diameter shank with 3 flats for solid gripping
by your mag drill chuck. Optional
Milwaukee Portable Magnetic Drill
Press with chuck: $1495. (see
below) |
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Q150-E5:
$4490.
Rebores holes in-line from 1.75 to 5.5 inches diameter. Q150-E5
comes with:
Optional
BOA-308 Bore
Welder Attachment: $5795.
extra |
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Close up photo showing easily the linear bearing mounting plates are welded to standoffs that are welded in place. Notice the finished hole above. |
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Photo shows the Q150S with oversize adapter attached to a customers mag drill turning a rough torched hole into a finished 6 inch diameter hole. |
Close up photo shows a finished 6 inch diameter hole that was also counterbored 1/16 deep by the Q150S. Hole was originally torch cut. |
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Customer's photo shows typical assembly of line bore equipment with Milwaukee magnetic drill. A chain was used to lift magnetic drill press in position. He used 3 bearings reduce vibration of boring bar. If you look closely, you can just barely see the cabide cutting bit sticking out of the shaft next to the hole on the left side. |
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BOA-308
Welding Package $5995. |
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INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING OUR LINE BORE EQUIPMENT:
ALWAYS
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES ! * ALWAYS KEEP HAIR, CLOTHING, HANDS AND FINGERS
CLEAR !
It helps
to have a 2nd person to assist with the setup.
This is intended for reboring pivot holes in heavy equipment such
as cranes, backhoes, end loaders, excavators and tractors powered
by your variable speed magnetic drill with a 3/4 inch capacity drill
chuck. Our equipment might also be useful to rebore holes on machinery
side frames, printing press frames, steel mill ladles, bridge pivots,
etc.
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1) Using the two outermost holes to repair, insert one plastic
alignment cone (or metal sleeve for small holes) into the center
of each hole. If using the line-up sleeves (for very small holes),
carefully wrap tape concentrically around the outer diameter of
each sleeve for snug fit between the sleeve and the hole. It sounds
strange but tape works. It is important to closely match the placement
of your centering cone or sleeves with the original hole center,
so take your time and get it right. 2) Slide the boring bar through each cone (or sleeve) and tighten the set screws in the cones. 3) Bolt a self-aligning bearing to a bearing backup plate using bolts and washers. 4) Slide one bearing & plate on the end of the boring bar and the drill base adapter (with built-in self-aligning bearing) onto the shank end. Screw 4.5" riser blocks to bearing plates and to the drill adapter base with the flat head screws where ever riser blocks can be welded to connect bearing plates to equipment to be line-bored. The 4.5" inch riser blocks also allow easy removal of alignment cone and access for cutting tool adjustment and measuring of the hole with the digital caliper (a flashlight helps to see). 5) Remember that the drill base adapter can also be used to attach the optional BOA-308-S1 Bore Welder. 6) Weld all stand-offs to heavy equipment to be line bored using large tack welds. 7) Undo the cone set screws, slide the boring bar part way out and remove the cones (or sleeves) from under the bearing plates. 8) Add more bearings where possible to prevent vibration during boring. We recommend one on each side of every hole you wish to bore (unless there are more than 2 holes). |
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9) After welding all the bearings in place it may be necessary to
loosen the bolts that hold the bearings to the plates (one bearing
plate at a time) and tap the boring bar slightly because the welding
process may create a tension that can reduce the free movement of
the bar through the bearings.
10) Carefully tighten the chuck of your magnetic drill onto the 3
flats of the shank of the boring bar while supporting the weight of
the mag drill. Use the jacking screw in the adapter base threaded
tab to support and position the drill. It may be helpful to loosen
and retighten the drill base swivel if your mag drill has it.
Be careful not to bend the shank of the boring bar with the magnetic
drill press weight.
11) On the Safety Adapter Base; tighten the 4 side clamping bolts
against the drill magnet base. In case of electrical power failure,
this is to help prevent the magnetic drill from injuring you or bending
the boring shaft. A blown fuse, circuit breaker, bad cord or stopped
generator can cause power failure.
12) Insert carbide cutting tool into boring bar. Set screw in place
to proper dimension for cutting. Use the digital caliper to position
the carbide cutter by measuring from the tip of the carbide to the
back of the boring bar and subracting half the thickness of the boring
bar. This measurement will set your cutting radius which equals half
your boring diameter. If the set screw makes a dent in the carbide
cutter shank, you will find it is difficult to adjust the cutter out
less than a 1/16" so it is best to sand the dent or use a fresh
cutter.
13) Apply oil to cutting tip and spray oil in hole. Check to make
sure the drill chuck is still tight on the shank.
14) Begin cutting at low RPMs. You should be able to remove up to
1/16 per side with each pass. 1/32 if cutting through weld or boring
large holes. Keep the carbide tool bits at low RPMs (100 max rpm for
8" diameter, 160 max rpm for 5" dia, 225 max rpm for 3.5" dia,
400 rpm max for 2" dia). If the cutting tool is fighting hard, apply
less pressure, to make the carbide cutting tools last longer.
15) The left hand cutting tool bits are for rough and finish cutting
and the square cut tool bits are for finishing and the side cut tool
is used for face cutting.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES ! * ALWAYS KEEP HAIR,
CLOTHING, HANDS AND FINGERS CLEAR !
Do not rush. There is no substitute for using
caution and common sense.
There are usually two options to repair pivot holes on heavy equipment:
16A) Holes can be welded and then bored back to the original specs.
Unless you purchase a Bore Welder such as the BOA-308, this is time
consuming because it requires a lot of welding to fill in the worn
spots. Grind off or bore out galled metal first, because if you
weld on top of galled metal the weld will harden too much and you
will waste many carbide cutters trying to bore the hard weld in the
hole. Make sure you use the correct weld rod/wire for reboring
with carbide cutting bits. 6011 rod is easier to machine than 7018
but wears faster. For wire use 70S6 or substitute 70S2. It may help
to first bore with a HSS cobalt steel cutter (instead of brittle carbide)
to remove the high spots from hand welding.
16B) Holes can be bored larger than spec size, and then a sleeve can
be welded into the hole (we recommend about 3/4 diameter larger) or
an oversize bushing can be installed if there was a bushing before.
Then when the holes become worn out again simply replace the old sleeve
or bushing with a new one. They are easily made on a metal
working lathe. Heat treating the sleeve will make it last longer.
Original Spec size is the original hole diameter specified by the
manufacturer (such as Caterpillar) to fit the outer diameter of the
pivot shaft, or if there is supposed to be a bushing, then spec size
is the hole sized to press fit the outer diameter of the bushing that
the shaft fits into. Check with the manufacturer for original specifications.
Oversize bushings can sometimes be purchased from an industrial bearing
supplier such as one at the website www.ebushing.com/HSB.html or from
a heavy equipment dealer. If your holes are not too worn and an oversize
bushing is available, then you can just bore to fit the new larger
outer diameter of the bushing. You can freeze some bushings overnight
and slip them into the holes in the morning for an easy press fit
into a hole that is undersized by about .0005" per inch of O.D.
Beware that the bushing I.D. does not collapse in so much that you
need to bore or hone the I.D. to fit the pin.
17) Stop to measure often. Use the digital caliper provided or optional
dial indicator bore gage. The easist way to get the the most exact
finish is to hone the last .001". This reduces the risk of accidently
boring too much.
18) When holes are finish sized, remove Magnetic drill and all bearings.
19) Cafefully use a torch and hand grinder to remove bearing standoff
plates for future use.
20) If you are careful you should use about 2 or 3 carbide cutting
bits per hole set. Welded holes are hard on carbide bits and may use
more.
21) Our standard equipment can bore up to 5.5" diameter but be aware
that extending the cutting tool bit out far increases unwanted vibration
(tool chatter). To bore holes larger than 5 inches, use the optional
oversize adapter which allows hole boring up to 8 inches. The adapter
slides on the boring bar and is designed to be screwed into one of
the threaded holes and then clamped in place with place by tightening
the clamping screw. The cutting bit can then be used inside the adapter
to bore up to 8" diameter. The optional adapter comes with 8" diameter
cones and longer bearing mounting plates to bridge 8" holes.
NOTE: The carbide tips can be modified or sharpened with a green silicon
grinding wheel mounted on a bench/pedestal grinder. All the cutting
bits shipped with the line boring equipment are stock size, so that
each tool is capable of cutting to the maximum diameter. To bore holes
smaller than 3" diameter, cut the shank of a cutting tool bit with
a metal cutting saw. To bore very small holes, you may need to grind
back some of the cutting tool head so that it can fit further down
into the tool hole on the boring shaft. Our equipment uses standard
1/2" square lathe carbide cutting tools.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES ! * ALWAYS KEEP HAIR, CLOTHING, HANDS AND FINGERS CLEAR !
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Precision Dial Indicator Bore Gage $95. • Measues 2.0" - 6.0" with 11 anvils |
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Milwaukee
Magnetic Drill Press
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