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Line
Boring Tools
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Portable Line Boring Machine Equipment for
fast concentric bore repair of holes on Backhoes, Dozers, Endloaders,
Scrapper Hitches, Tractors, Excavators, etc - using a standard magnetic
drill press.
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Photo shows our 72" boring bar reboring 4 holes in line on a large bucket. The mag drill is held by our weld-on safety base in case of power failure. Also notice the 2 just bored and sleeved holes above. |
All you need is our line boring equipment, a mag drill, welder, grinder, C-clamps, and hammer. |
Q150
Line Boring System - with improved drill base adapter:
the most
economical equipment to bore holes round and concentric again. 90%
Made in USA. The Q150 setup is intended for repairing holes in heavy
construction equipment such as cranes, backhoes, endloaders, excavators
and tractors powered by your variable speed magnetic drill press with
a 3/4 inch drill chuck. It
can also be used to rebore holes in machine frames, steel mill ladles,
bridge support pivots, etc. Our 1.500" diameter boring bars hold
standard 1/2" square shank carbide lathe cutting tools. One year warranty
against defects in American craftsmanship.
Q88
Mini Line Boring Rig - with drill and manual feed device:
the most
economical equipment to bore small holes at a small price. Includes
electric drill.
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Q88
Hole Boring Rig:
$1295. |
7/8"
dia x 28" long Boring Bar - highest quality chrome induction
hardened and precision ground 100,000 PSI tensile strength
alloy steel, resists scoring to still fit the bearings use after
use. 1/4" cutting tool mounting holes are spaced 4"
apart. 1/2" shank with 3 flats for solid gripping by the
drill chuck. |
| Q150-S
Hole Boring Kit:
$1895. Bores single holes or 2 holes in-line from 1.75 to 5.5 inches diameter spaced up to 20 inches apart.  Click to request more information Powered by your magnetic drill with 3/4" drill chuck. Optional Milwaukee Portable Magnetic Drill Press with chuck: $1495. (Variable speed, 11" stroke. See below) Optional Adaptor, large Cones & Bearing Plates to bore up to 8 inches diameter: $595. extra Optional Q88A 7/8" x 36" Boring Bar Kit for use with Q150 equipment. Bores holes 1" to 1.5" diameter: $750. Optional BOA-308 Bore Welder: $5895. extra |
1.50"
dia x 36" long Boring Bar - made from highest quality chrome
induction hardened and precision ground 100,000 PSI tensile
strength alloy steel, resists burrs and scoring to still fit the
bearings use after use. Cutting Bit mounting holes are spaced
5 inches apart. 3/4" shank with 3 flats for solid gripping
by the drill chuck. 2 Self-aligning Bearings - the I.D. of the bearings have a perfect fit between bar and bearings, which insures holes can be bored to near zero TIR runout. 2 Bearing Plates and 4 Standoffs - 3/4 inch thick for easy weld on and vibration free machining. Drill Base Adapter with built-in bearing - Important safety device to hold mag drill in case of power failure. Also designed to mount the BOA-308-S1 bore welder. 2 Centering Cones - for quick concentric alignment of the boring bar and bearings in larger holes. 2 Centering Sleeves - for quick concentric alignment of the boring bar and bearings in smaller holes. 7 Carbide Cutting Tools - 3 types of boring and 1 facing. Held in the boring shaft by heavy set screws. 1 Electronic Caliper - Measures 0" to 6" with digital readout to .001" in/mm 1 Wood case - with dolly wheels. |
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The standard Q150-L comes complete with everything you need except the mag drill:
1.50" dia x 54" long Boring Bar - made from highest quality
chrome hardened and precision ground 100,000 PSI tensile
strength alloy steel, resists burrs and scoring to still fit
the bearings use after use. Cutting Bit mounting holes are spaced
5 inches apart. 3/4 diameter shank with 3 flats for solid gripping
by your mag drill chuck. Optional
Milwaukee Portable Magnetic Drill
Press with chuck: $1495. (see
below) |
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The standard Q150-XLS comes complete with everything you need except the mag drill:
1.50" dia x 72" long Boring Bar - made from highest quality
chrome hardened and precision ground 100,000 PSI tensile
strength alloy steel, resists burrs and scoring to still fit
the bearings use after use. Cutting Bit mounting holes are spaced
5 inches apart. 3/4 diameter shank with 3 flats for solid gripping
by your mag drill chuck. Optional
Milwaukee Portable Magnetic Drill
Press with chuck: $1495. (see
below) |
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Q150-E5:
$4490.
Rebores holes in-line from 1.75 to 5.5 inches diameter. Q150-E5
comes with:
Optional BOA-308
Bore Welder Attachment: $5895.
extra |
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Close up photo showing easily the linear bearing mounting plates are welded to standoffs that are welded in place. Notice the finished hole above. |
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Photo shows the Q150S with oversize adapter attached to a customers mag drill turning a rough torched hole into a finished 6 inch diameter hole. We have 18" long boring bars. |
Close up photo shows a finished 6 inch diameter hole that was also counterbored 1/16 deep by the Q150S. Hole was originally torch cut. |
 Photo shows customer boring center pin holes. Notice he temporarily welded a plate in position to attach the drill press assembly. |
 Close up photo shows new center pins in newly bored holes. Line boring takes patience but with our tools its not rocket science. |
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Customer's photo shows typical assembly of line bore equipment with Milwaukee magnetic drill. A chain was used to lift magnetic drill press in position. He used 3 bearings reduce vibration of boring bar. If you look closely, you can just barely see the cabide cutting bit sticking out of the shaft next to the hole on the left side. |
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BOA-308
Welding Package $5995. |
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INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING OUR Q150 LINE BORE EQUIPMENT:
ALWAYS
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES ! * ALWAYS KEEP HAIR, CLOTHING, HANDS AND FINGERS
CLEAR !
It helps
to have a 2nd person to assist with the setup, especially when centering
your boring bar.
This is intended for reboring pivot holes in heavy equipment such
as cranes, backhoes, end loaders, excavators and tractors powered
by your variable speed magnetic drill with a 3/4 inch capacity drill
chuck and a long drill press stroke. Our equipment can also be useful
to rebore holes on machinery side frames, mounting flanges, printing
press frames, steel mill ladles, bridge pivots, etc.
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1) Using the two outermost holes to repair, insert one plastic
alignment cone (or metal sleeve for small holes) into each hole
against the unworn side of the holes. If using the line-up sleeves
(for very small holes), carefully wrap tape concentrically around
the outer diameter of each sleeve for snug fit between the sleeve
and the hole. It sounds strange but it works. Or if you want to
be very accurate you can make or special order sleeves from us
that exactly fit against the original diameter of the holes. It
is important to closely match the placement of your centering
cones or sleeves with the original hole diameters, so take your
time and get it right. If the holes are too worn to find the centers
using the cones or sleeves you should buy our adjustable centering
tools. They take more time to use but they can accurately position
your boring shaft where you want if you can figure out where the
center used to be. 2) Slide the boring bar through each cone (or sleeve) and tighten the set screws in the cones. 3) Bolt a self-aligning bearing to a bearing backup plate using bolts and washers. 4) Slide one bearing & plate on the end of the boring bar and the drill base adapter (with built-in self-aligning bearing) onto the shank end. Screw 4.5" standoffs to bearing plates and to the drill adapter base with the flat head screws where ever riser blocks can be welded to connect bearing plates to equipment to be line-bored. The 4.5" inch standoffs also allow easy removal of alignment cone and access for cutting tool adjustment and measuring of the hole (a flashlight helps to see). We also provide 1" square standoffs that can be used vertically to get around hydraulic lines or horizontally to get the bearing closer. 5) Remember that the drill base adapter can also be used to attach the optional BOA-308 Bore Welder. 6) Hold cones firmly against the good side of the worn holes to find where the center used to be. Each cone has a set screw to help hold it in position. Weld the stand-offs to the equipment to be line bored using large tack welds. It helps to have someone hold the cones in position while you tack weld. 7) Undo the cone set screws, slide the boring bar part way out and remove the cones (or sleeves) from under the bearing plates. 8) Add more bearings where possible to prevent vibration during boring. We recommend one on each side of every hole you wish to bore (unless there are more than 2 holes). |
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9) After tack welding all the bearings in place with many little tacks
welds it may be necessary to loosen the bolts that hold the bearings
to the plates (one bearing plate at a time) and tap the boring bar
slightly because the welding process may cause the boring shaft to
bind in the bearings.
10) Carefully tighten the chuck of your magnetic drill onto the 3
flats of the shank of the boring bar while supporting the weight of
the mag drill. Use the jacking screw in the adapter base threaded
tab to support and position the drill. It may be helpful to loosen
and retighten the drill base swivel if your mag drill has it. The
Milwaukee machine we sell has this feature.
Be careful not to bend the shank of the boring bar with the magnetic
drill press weight.
11) On the Safety Adapter Base; tighten the 4 side clamping bolts
against the drill magnet base. In case of electrical power failure,
this is to help prevent the magnetic drill from injuring you or bending
the boring shaft. A blown fuse, circuit breaker, bad cord or stopped
generator can cause power failure.
12) Insert 1/2" square cutting tool into boring bar. Set screw
in place to proper dimension for cutting. Either position manually
by setting carbide about 1/32" past hole diameter or use the
digital caliper to adjust the carbide cutter by measuring from the
tip of the carbide to the back of the boring bar and adjust the cutter
outward while observing the number change on the caliper. To get the
final diameter carefully measure the hole and then carefully adjust
the cutter out the correct amount exactly. Or you can measure from
the tip of the carbide to the back of the boring bar and subract half
the thickness of the boring bar, this measurement will set your cutting
radius which equals half your boring diameter. If the set screw makes
a dent in the carbide cutter shank, you will find it is difficult
to adjust the cutter out less than a 1/16" so it is best to sand
the dent or use a fresh cutter.
13) Apply oil to cutting tip and spray oil in hole. Check to make
sure the drill chuck is still tight on the shank.
14) Begin cutting at low RPMs. You should be able to remove up to
1/32 with each pass. 1/64 if cutting through weld or boring large
holes. Keep the carbide tool bits at low RPMs (100 max rpm for 8"
diameter, 133 max rpm for 6" diameter, 160 max rpm for 5" diameter,
200 rpm for 4" diameter, 267 max rpm for 3" diameter, 400 rpm
max for 2" diameter). Slower RPMs is better but not too slow. Gently
apply pressure on the drill press handle. Do not push hard on the
handle. Let the cutter do the work. If the cutting tool is fighting
hard, apply less pressure, to make the carbide cutting tools last
longer. Otherwise they will chip or break. For the first pass thru,
use the Cobalt Steel Cutter. Remember to manipulate speed, feed pressure
and depth of cut for a smooth job. You can actually set up a bunge
cord to pull the handle for you as a crude automatic feed.
15) The cobalt steel cutter is for removing high spots from weld.
You can use the tool holder with the replaceable triangle carbide
inserts or use the left hand brazed carbide cutting tool bits for
rough and finish cutting. The square cut tool bits are only for finishing
and the side cut tool is used for facing. The arrow head tool bit
is for chamfering. All the cutters can be sharpened on a bench grinder
with a green silicone grinding wheel. It is also helpful to grind
the relief angle a little steeper on the top of the carbide. It is
normally at about 5 degrees. Grinding to 7.5 degrees or so will help
compensate for the forward tool offset the cutters have.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES ! * ALWAYS KEEP HAIR,
CLOTHING, HANDS AND FINGERS CLEAR !
Do not rush. There is no substitute for using
caution and common sense.
There are usually two options to repair pivot holes on heavy equipment:
16 - Method A) Holes can be welded and then bored back to the original
specs. Unless you purchase a Bore Welder such as the BOA-308, this
is time consuming because it requires a lot of welding to fill in
the worn spots and it is difficult to bore the high spots. Grind
off or bore out galled metal first, because if you weld on top of
galled metal the weld will harden too much and you will waste many
cutters and a lot of time trying to bore the hard weld in the hole.
Same advice goes for removing old grease and oil since they can oil
harden the weld. Make sure you use the correct weld rod/wire for
reboring with carbide cutting bits. 6011 rod is easier to machine
than 7018 but wears faster. Consider 7014. For wire use 70S6 or substitute
70S2. It may help to first bore with a HSS cobalt steel cutter (instead
of brittle carbide) to remove the high spots from hand welding. Though
you should grind smooth any extra high welds first.
16 - Method B) Holes can be bored larger than spec size, and then
a sleeve can be welded into the hole so that the I.D. is the original
hole size (we recommend about 1/2" diameter larger for holes
2" to 4", 3/4" diameter larger for holes 4" to
6"). This method only works if the is a lot of extra room.
16 - Method C) An oversize bushing can be installed if there was a
bushing before. Then when the holes become worn out again simply replace
the old sleeve or bushing with a new one. They can be purchased from
the manufacturer (such as Caterpillar) or are easily made on a metal
working lathe. Heat treating the sleeve will make it last longer.
Original Spec size is the original hole diameter specified by the
manufacturer (such as Caterpillar) to fit the outer diameter of the
pivot shaft, or if there is supposed to be a bushing, then spec size
is the hole sized to press fit the outer diameter of the bushing that
the shaft fits into. Check with the manufacturer for original specifications.
Oversize bushings can be purchased from a heavy equipment dealer or
sometimes an industrial bearing supplier such as one at the website
www.ebushing.com. If your holes are not too worn and an oversize bushing
is available, then you can just bore to fit the new larger outer diameter
of the bushing. You can freeze some bushings overnight (or use nitrogen)
and slip them into the holes in the morning for an easy press fit
into a hole that is undersized by .001 or .002". Beware that the bushing
I.D. does not collapse in so much that you need to bore or hone the
I.D. to fit the pin.
17) Stop to measure often and adjust your cutter as specified above
in paragraph 12. Use the digital caliper provided or optional dial
indicator bore gage. The adjustable measuring tools ($195) allow you
to measure the bore without removing the boring bar. The easist way
to get the the most exact finish is to hone the last .001". This
reduces the risk of accidently boring too much.
18) When holes are finish sized, remove Magnetic drill and all bearings.
19) Cafefully use a torch and hand grinder to remove bearing standoff
plates for future use or leave them on until you are absolutely sure
you are done. The screws are designed for easy re-assembly back together
in the exact same position if you tighten them down 90 percent of
the way and tighten the last 10 percent of the way a 1/4 turn per
screw until they are all tight.
20) If you are careful you should use about 2 carbide cutting bits
per hole. Welded holes are hard on carbide bits and may use more.
21) Our standard equipment can bore up to 5.5" diameter but be aware
that extending the cutting tool bit out far increases unwanted vibration
(tool chatter). To bore holes larger than 5 inches, use the optional
oversize adapter which allows hole boring up to 8 inches. The adapter
slides on the boring bar and is designed to be screwed into one of
the threaded holes that normally hold a set screw and then clamped
on the boring shaft by tightening the clamping screw. The cutting
bit can then be used inside the adapter to bore up to 8" diameter.
The optional adapter comes with 8" diameter cones and longer bearing
mounting plates to bridge over 8" holes.
NOTE: The carbide tips can be modified or sharpened with a green silicon
grinding wheel mounted on a bench/pedestal grinder. Grinding the relief
angle of the carbide further back can help reduce cutting tool chatter.
All the cutting bits shipped with the line boring equipment are stock
size, so that each tool is capable of cutting to its maximum diameter.
To bore holes smaller than 3" diameter, cut the shank of a cutting
tool bit with a metal cutting saw. To bore very small holes, you may
need to grind back some of the cutting tool head so that it can fit
further down into the tool hole on the boring shaft. Our equipment
uses standard 1/2" square lathe carbide cutting tools.
We provide a carbide facing cutter that faces a circular path about
5/8" wide and can be used to face multiple concentric paths.
Also consider using a portable belt sander for surface facing.
Magnetic Drill Press Requirements: You will need one with a 3/4" (19mm) capacity drill chuck (not morse taper), variable speed or at least 2 speed (need slow rpms for holes over 3" diameter), and a long stroke of at least 6" (5" will work in some cases). The variable speed Milwaukee model we sell has an 11" stroke and an adjustable swivel magnetic base ($1495).
The
optional Q88A boring bar, inserts and little cones, can be
added on to bore holes from 1" to 1.5" diameter using your
Q150 equipment.
The Q88E comes with its own Milwaukee 1/2" electric drill,
drill press, bearings and mounting equipment for boring holes from
1" to 1.5".
Optional Tools for Cutting Retaining Ring Grooves, choose 4" to 8" dia: $295. each - this set comes with a spring, set screw collars and a special cobalt steel cutters ground to the width of your retaining ring groove.
Optional Ajustable centering/measuring tools: $95. each - these mount inside the boring bar since they fit into the 1/2" square cutting tool ports. We include all the different lengths of threaded extensions with rounded ends you will need for holes 1.75" to 8". These tools are used to position the boring bar inside the hole during setup or to measure the bored hole without removing the boring bar. We provide a digital caliper to measure accross the threaded extensions when you pull the boring bar back. These can also allow you to use our shorter bearing standoffs which increases the useful length of the boring bar.
Custom made Centering Sleeves are available from $50 2", $100 2" to 5", $150 over 5" depending on outer diameter. These are a very accurate way to center the boring bar in the holes and can allow you to use our shorter bearing standoffs which increases the useful length of the boring bar.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES ! * ALWAYS KEEP HAIR, CLOTHING, HANDS AND FINGERS CLEAR !
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Precision Dial Indicator Bore Gage $89. •
Measues 2.0" - 6.0" with 11 anvils |
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Milwaukee
Magnetic Drill Press •
Uses 120 volts electicity
• POWERFUL 12.5 AMPS RATING • Swivel-lock Adjustable Positioning Base • 11 inch stroke • Variable Speed • Feedback Speed Control • Computer Controlled Reverse • Solid State Electronic Switching • Full Wave Holding Power • Superior Cutting Tool Performance • Line Lock-Out: Prevents tool from operating should voltage be restored to an interrupted line when switch is locked in the "on" position. • Motor/Magnet Interlock • Base/Chip De-Mag • Soft-Start • Weight: 70 Lbs. |
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Fein
KBM-80Auto Magnetic Drill Press Fein
Power Tools introduces the first fully automatic magnetic drill
press with digitally controlled powerfeed. |
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